Hits and misses at trendy eatery on Dundas West
By Janice Warren
When it comes to cool, Dundas West trumps even Ossington. This month, anyway.
We go past Gladstone, past Hoof; and deep into a rather grotty block partially hidden by eternal construction… If the reviews of Atlantic had not been so glowing, I would not go further.
However, this eatery comes with an impressive pedigree as it is helmed by owner/chef Nathan Isenberg who made his mark with Czehoski and Coca in the Queen West gallery district. A quick read of the daily menu reveals almost unprecedented originality which explains all the attention Atlantic has attracted.
Fifteen small dishes comprise the entirety of the menu and only one is based on meat, which immediately sets Atlantic apart from the snout-to-tail neighbours on this urban strip. The well informed waitress recommends three dishes each. We are two diners this evening so we up her ante and order seven plates.
Grilled Asparagus with Romesco Sauce is sublime. This Catalan dish can make use of a wide range of nuts and this rendition is based on almonds made into a paste with garlic, olive oil and sweet red peppers. The first taste focuses on the grainy texture but the next one reveals layers of flavour that evoke Barcelona. $7.
B.C. Clams with Garlic Scapes and Fregola Pasta disappoint. Parsley is the dominant flavouring and the advertised garlic scapes seem to be an afterthought. $11.
In sharp contrast is ‘Fish head – Idea to Joanne: “you pick it apart”. Chuckles abound”. I have to offer the quote or you would think I invented it (the name is actually a cheeky response to a review by Joanne Kates). The head of a west coast salmon has a Japanese accent in that it is marinated and grilled. Thus we attack the wonderfully fatty nuggets of fish with chopsticks and grin each time we strike gold. Shamefully, neither of us can bear to eat the eyes. $6.
A touch of magic arrives in the form of Ragout of Escargot, Portuguese Bacon and Poached Egg, strewn with edible flowers. It is a study of contrasts: the pierced egg is mixed through the dark juice of snails and the unctuous combination is enlivened by the sharp bits of pork. The work of a creative mind. $9.
How can a kitchen with so much talent have so many misses?
The worst dish of the night is Seared Large Scallops with Duck Bacon and Consommé; an offering which should have been the star of the meal. The admirably large bivalves lack any evidence that heat has been applied. Where is the crispy sear? These two big scallops still quiver on the plate and, while it is true that we like a translucent centre, the gelatinous exterior doesn’t cut it. Plus, the duck bacon is squishy and muddy so the desired contrast is missing. This is a soft mess. $13.
One of our favourites is also the simplest. Strangler-Strozzapreti Pasta, Sao Jorge Cheese and Chillies presents as rope shaped pasta, reinterpreted into an intense macaroni and cheese. This has been the pet project of many a chef for the past couple of years but few have reached these heights. The sharpness of the cheese plays off the zing of the chillies to create the mac and cheese of my dreams. $11.
A quick word about the wine list: it is inexcusable. Four whites and four reds of no particular interest do not complement the menu as they are invariably thin or sweet. This needs immediate attention.
Only two desserts are offered tonight so we sample both. A better than average Crème Brulee is elevated by this week's designer ingredient: Fennel Pollen with a touch of honey. $7
An extraordinarily generous cheese course brings Douanier, Le Cendrillon and Wishing Tree cheeses with a thick slab of Membrillo (quince jelly). All is tasted on raisin toast. Some might argue that this interferes with the blue and the ash as it appears but I respectfully differ.
Atlantic is not for everyone. The lack of meat and fowl, as well as the regular appearance of novel ingredients, result in a resto that is targeting a thin slice of the market. I would like to add my name to the client roster, but not until a higher level of consistency is reached.
2 ½ stars
Atlantic, 1597 Dundas St. W., 416-219-3819
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