April 20, 2014
Apr 1, 2013
01:42 PM
Eat

First Look: The Samuel J. Moore, a new restaurant for brunch, lunch, late-night eats and more

The Samuel J. Moore's eggs Benny with pork terrine (Images: Karolyne Ellacott)

After being in the works for a hefty chunk of time, The Samuel J. Moore finally opened its doors at The Great Hall last month. Perched on the corner of Queen and Dovercourt, the modern bistro is helmed by chef Alexandra Feswick (formerly of Brockton General), who turns out local, Canadian-inspired fare at just about every hour of the day.

Named after the man who originally built the place, Mr. Moore himself, this resurrected corner space has been washed over with timeless appeal: a white tin ceiling peers over black and white tiled floors, while a marble-topped bar provides the backdrop to the classic bistro tables. Walls are livened up with (mostly) sepia-tinged images showcasing the history of the space.

Depending on the hour of the day — early birds can arrive at the chime of 6; night owls can linger until, well, “late” — patrons can graze on goods from the brunch, lunch, dinner, dessert, snack and late-night menus. Feswick had her way with the menus, though she was told that eggs Benny and a burger were musts.

Her take on the burger ($18) stars hand-chopped sirloin and bone marrow, matched with slabs of Stilton and tucked into brioche. “The burger’s been crazy,” Feswick says.

The Benny has fared just as well. Available in three combos, the most popular pick ($15) features pork terrine — which is diced up with pigs’ ears for added crunch — and loaded onto a house-made biscuit.

Meanwhile, the pulled chicken sandwich ($12) is paired with rasher bacon, arugula, pickled egg and is spruced up with some tomato jam and green goddess dressing.

And for those looking for something lighter, baked goods from pastry chef Sonia Cecchi or cocktails, like the Athol Brose ($10, featuring oat milk, Four Roses bourbon, maple syrup and nutmeg), will do just the trick.

The Samuel J. Moore, 1087 Queen St. W., 416-897-8348


 
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