Skin+Bones is a great neighbourhood go-to. But is it, in the words of the Michelin guide, “worth a special journey?” Only if fried meat fat is your drug of choice.">

Kates: is Skin+Bones worth the trek to Leslieville?


Published:

Pork belly with octopus salad and arancini $18 (Image: Jon Sufrin)

If you live in Leslieville, Skin+Bones is a great neighbourhood go-to. But is it, in the words of the Michelin guide, “worth a special journey?” Only if fried meat fat is your drug of choice.

Go figure why chef Matthew Sullivan, who did wonderful work with Mediterranean seafood at Maléna, has gone over to the dark side. Creativity lives here, but with no leash on it.

Do squid “noodles” on lettuce need pig crackling? Celeriac gnocchi are heavy and don’t taste of celeriac, and of two sides on offer, one is potatoes deep-fried and then fried again, with cream sauce.

Chef gets his pork belly good and crisp and sides it cleverly with coins of marinated octopus and radish in orange vinaigrette. But deep-fried bone marrow risotto? Dense toffee pudding with bone marrow caramel and whipped cream?

Chef Sullivan can do way lighter than this.

Skin+Bones, 980 Queen Street East 416-524-5209

Joanne Kates trained at the Ecole Cordon Bleu de Cuisine in Paris. She has written articles for numerous publications, including the New York Times, Maclean’s and Chatelaine, and she was the Globe and Mail’s restaurant critic for 38 years.

Edit Module

Follow us on Twitter @PostCity for more on what to eat, where to shop and what to do in Toronto.

Edit ModuleShow Tags

You may also like...

Restaurant Recap: Dirtybird opens, ramen taste test and Le Petit Castor closes

Restaurant Recap: Dirtybird opens, ramen taste test and Le Petit Castor closes

Sll three of the new spots, Dirty Bird, Famous Laffa and Chelo & Co., that opened this week fit squarely into the affordable category, so it's easier to try them out without worrying about breaking the budget.
Posted 3 hours ago
Nadège celebrates the croissant this Sunday

Nadège celebrates the croissant this Sunday

Sunday, Mar. 8 is the second-annual Croissunday for the fourth-generation chef and her multi-site group of Toronto patisseries. You can pop by either the Queen West or the Rosedale locations to sample one of 15 unique varieties of croissant from a one-day only menu.
Posted 4 hours ago
Taste Test: Susur Lee helps us pick Toronto’s top ramen

Taste Test: Susur Lee helps us pick Toronto’s top ramen

Toronto is a veritable mecca of Japanese cuisine and over the years the number of ramen shops has rapidly grown. With ramen comes ramen aficionados, so we invited star chef Susur Lee to taste T.O.’s top bowls.
Posted 1 day ago
Italian Consulate General and Buca are launching a dinner series featuring Michelin-starred chefs

Italian Consulate General and Buca are launching a dinner series featuring Michelin-starred chefs

Chef Massimo Bottura will be in Toronto for a three-day visit, including a dinner at Buca Yorkville.
Posted 3 days ago
Edit ModuleShow Tags Edit ModuleEdit Module