Restaurant Review: Refined simplicity at Dandylion

When a guy with a golden pedigree gets his own shop, you gotta go. Jay Carter cut his teeth as sous-chef under Susur Lee, first at Susur and then at Lee. He was chef at Centro during its glory years.

And now, finally, his own vision and passion come home to roost at Dandylion on Queen West. It’s a very sweet homebuilt room, more sweat equity than capital on show, with lovely warm lighting, high ceilings, an open kitchen at the back and marble tables. Plain-spoken. Friendly.

Rather like the food. Chef has obviously taken great care to exercise restraint, to rein himself in against gunking up his plates with gewgaws and gimmickry. So the food is very simple and clean and straightforward.

They start us with impeccable fresh-made cheese with shallots to spread on superlative whole wheat bread. There are just three choices for apps, mains and desserts. And one’s veg. Keepin’ it simple.

When an accomplished chef who’s had the patience to wait gets his own canvas to paint, if he’s smart he figures out his vision, style and values rather than trying to be all things to all people. Jay Carter has clearly and consciously chosen layered simplicity.

Elegant potato soup is green from fresh dill, smoky from moist mackerel and ham chunks. Raw cobia, a delicate white fish, has been sliced thin a la sashimi, sauced in an ultra-light vinaigrette that “cooked” it slightly, and topped with avocado (lovely) and a plethora of soybeans that have been sliced and crisped to resemble too much savoury granola. A little of it would have been OK. A lot is meh.

The menu changes; you will perhaps not meet the delightful pink lamb that was our meat option. Two tender chops sitting pretty on high-flavoured black lentils stewed with tiny diced veg and slightly crunchy kale. The fish that night was tilefish, a delicate creature, perfectly pan-seared, with sweet/sour Asian-inflected tomato jam. Nothing spectacular here, but good honest cooking with credible ingredients.

Sweets are … sweeter. Chef does a dense pear cake made even more exciting with raw ginger chunks, caramel crunchy bits and rich vanilla ice cream. Jay Carter is in love with texture. He is like a weaver, a thoughtful cook who builds his plates on touch and feel as well as taste. And he has commitment. It’s not the best restaurant in town, but it’s interesting, and Jason Carter tries harder.

Dandylion, 1198 Queen St. W., $50 Dinner for two

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