First Look: The Fat Beet, a new Thornhill restaurant serving Indian, Israeli and Mediterranean food


Published:

Mung beans with baby carrots, labneh and za’atar

Image: Libby Roach

Thornhill has its fair share of diverse eateries, but rarely does a restaurant combine multiple cuisines under one roof successfully. The Fat Beet, opened last week on Yonge Street by Clark Avenue, aims to change that.

Taking over the former site of The Indian Kitchen (which has re-opened across the street), the Fat Beet combines the specialities of multiple chefs. Sudhan Natarajan is in charge of the Middle Eastern fare, Satyandra Singh handles Indian eats and Sheik Andwaruddin is on desserts. 

Owner Tarun Verma (who previously worked at Amaya for seven years) is helming restaurant operations, with a little help from his brother-in-law, Hemant Bhagwani (of Indian Street Food Co. and Amaya fame). 

One of Bhagwani’s touches includes a no-tipping ethos (the restaurant institutes a 12 per cent admin fee instead), and he also developed the recipes and helped round out the overall concept. He’s not involved in day-to-day operations, leaving Verma to execute their shared vision.

Bhagwani and Verma depart from an all-Indian menu, taking flavour profiles from Bhagwani’s recent trip to Tel-Aviv and finding further inspiration from Israeli chef Eyal Shani. Yes, there will be cauliflower.


IMAGE: Libby Roach
 

The space is reminiscent of Indian Street Food Co. on Bayview. Cheeky posters line the reclaimed wood walls, with floor-to-ceiling windows flanking the tidy room. One perk of the suburban location is the bountiful free parking that wraps around the restaurant.

The menu is broken up into compact sections, with shareable plates, nibbles and Bhagwani’s new creation, “pico,” which is a flatbread-style carb. Think pita bread crossed with a taco. 

Picos come dressed to the nines, with Phoenician fries or red quinoa salads as a side.


IMAGE: Libby Roach

The crispy shrimp pico ($11.90) invokes a nod to Asian eats, with a spicy kick of Sriracha, a chive sauce and a pop of fresh slaw.


IMAGE: Libby Roach

The roasted cauliflower pico ($9.80) comes with hard-boiled quail eggs and a celery root purée.


IMAGE: Libby Roach
 

The red quinoa salad comes as its own dish as well, ($9.80), with shallots, watercress and a Dijon-based dressing.


IMAGE: Libby Roach

Love rice ($16.80) is a Jenga-esque tower of rice, studded with pickled veggies and topped with tzatziki.


IMAGE: Libby Roach
 

Another combination pairs purple slaw with two stubby corn cakes ($9.80), making it easy to share. Mung beans ($9.80) come matched with whole baby carrots, smoked labneh and sprinkles of za’atar. Crispy pico slivers bring texture to the dish. 


IMAGE: Libby Roach

Heartier (and maybe harder to share) halibut ($19.80) arrives swimming in sambhar curry sauce, with a crown of arugula leaves and a lime wedge for extra seasoning.


IMAGE: Libby Roach
 

As for dessert, ricotta ($8.50) comes with a blackberry compote and rhubarb.

The drink menu relies on loads of local Ontario wines and an almost entirely Ontario-based beer menu. Cocktails are atypical, with choices including the sumac martini ($12.50) and the kumquat with passion ($12.50). 

The Fat Beet is open 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. on weekdays, with a brunch menu starting at 10 a.m. on weekends.


IMAGE: Libby Roach
 

The Fat Beet, 7330 Yonge St., 416-599-1999

Edit Module

Join the conversation and have your say by commenting below. Our comment system uses a Facebook plugin. Please note that you'll have to turn off some ad-blockers in order to see the comments.

Edit Module

Follow us on Twitter @PostCity for more on what to eat, where to shop and what to do in Toronto.

Edit ModuleShow Tags

You may also like...

Restaurant Review: Seafood abounds at Ardo, Corktown’s Sicilian eatery

Restaurant Review: Seafood abounds at Ardo, Corktown’s Sicilian eatery

Then there’s Ardo, the super-popular newish Sicilian restaurant in Corktown. It’s friendly and pleasant-looking, done in pale colours with warm lighting, Sicilian tchotchkes and a great buzz. Lots of people, lots of noise. And a few ringside bar seats overlooking the fast-moving and superbly fragrant open kitchen.
Posted 2 days ago
What to Eat this Minute: An uptown paradise for crème brûlée lovers

What to Eat this Minute: An uptown paradise for crème brûlée lovers

A menu of the available flavours sits next to the cash at Craque de Crème. Sweet-toothed patrons can order iterations of the dessert in everything from white chocolate rose to lychee vodka to, of course, a classic vanilla bean.
Posted 4 days ago
Looking Back: Toronto on rye

Looking Back: Toronto on rye

Now, the museum at Beth Tzedec Synagogue is hosting an exhibition called From Latkes to Laffas, celebrating the humble deli, which opened last month and continues until March 30, 2018.
Posted 5 days ago
Taste Test: Chef Mark McEwan helps us taste Toronto's best tandoori chicken

Taste Test: Chef Mark McEwan helps us taste Toronto's best tandoori chicken

McEwan’s menu at Diwan restaurant in the Aga Khan Museum features South Asian, Middle Eastern and north African cuisines.
Posted 5 days ago
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleEdit Module