First Look: Geraldine, an ode to turn-of-the-century dining on Queen West
Radishes with green goddess dressing, $7 (Images: Gizelle Lau)
When Parkdale locals Alexandra Albert and Peter Ramsay heard about the closing of Cowbell, it was an easy decision to take over the space. Ramsay was formerly a sous chef there, so the pair’s new restaurant, Geraldine, is a tribute to Ramsay’s time under chef Mark Cutrara and also an ode to Parkdale’s history.
Geraldine is a family affair. It was named after Ramsay’s grandmother, and it was designed with help from Randy Albert (Alexandra’s father) of AyA Kitchens. The space is inspired by turn-of-the-century, pre-prohibition, grand hotel elegance — described by Alexandra as an “intentional breakaway from the barn board of recent years.”
Likewise, chef Ramsay’s menu offers turn-of-the-century dishes like oysters Rockefeller ($6), Welsh rarebit ($5), clam chowder ($7), rabbit terrine ($9) or a duck sandwich ($9). There is also a raw seafood display behind the bar.
For libations, bartender Michael Mooney creates cocktails that would excite any cocktail geek, with 19th century recipes like the Sazerac ($12) or the Widow’s Kiss ($12), along with others inspired by history, like the Charlemagne ($11), the Irish Armada ($11) or the Antoinette ($10).