Museum Tavern, a splendid-looking homage to Parisian bistros like Le Vaudeville, dishes more than good looks.">

Kates: Museum Tavern is more than just a pretty face



Museum Tavern's slick digs (Image: Gizelle Lau)

Fun pub grub is rare and sweet, for too often it’s grease all the way. If you find yourself hungry on Millionaire’s Mile at Bloor and Avenue, good luck. Precious little there is fit for humans to eat. The new Museum Tavern, a splendid-looking homage to Parisian bistros like Le Vaudeville, dishes more than good looks.

It’s casual, easygoing and actually has some good flavours. Tuna poke is a buttery sesame tuile cone stuffed generously with raw tuna and avocado in sriracha mayo. One wouldn’t expect butter to work with raw tuna but the twin smoothnesses — butter and tuna — echo each other very kindly.

We also adore the elk sliders, bay burgers cooked rare (if you ask nicely) on cute little egg buns with crispy bacon. Torpedoes are long sandwiches, the best being pulled lamb with chevre, pesto and arugula. Let super-bartender Moses McIntee do something clever with bourbon, and kick back.

Museum Tavern, 208 Bloor Street West 416-920-0110

Joanne Kates trained at the Ecole Cordon Bleu de Cuisine in Paris. She has written articles for numerous publications, including the New York Times, Maclean’s and Chatelaine, and she was the Globe and Mail’s restaurant critic for 38 years.