First Look: Temaki and sake are in the spotlight at Omai


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Image: Yvonne Tsui

Omai is a new Japanese temaki (hand rolls) and sake bar on Baldwin Street from Edward Bang and Jason Ching.


(IMAGE: YVONNE TSUI)

 

Bang made his first foray into Japanese food in Vancouver before attending the Culinary Institute of America in New York. He has worked at Michelin-starred restaurants such as Eleven Madison Park and Blue Hill at Stone Barns. His Toronto resume includes stints at Canoe, Patria and Weslodge. 

He and co-owner Jason Ching met through a blogger friend at a craft beer pop-up and from there, the duo went on to host a series of supper clubs out of Ching’s home before becoming business partners. Ching’s family also operated a Vietnamese restaurant, Wonderpho in North York.


(IMAGE: YVONNE TSUI)

 

“Patience was running really low at the end,” says Ching of the near two-year hunt to find a space. Their only criteria were something “1,400 square feet and under,” and “anywhere in Toronto.” Before they saw the space on Baldwin, initial ideas included a quick service concept of Korean rice bowls. But the wrap-around counter lent itself naturally to the temaki and sake bar concept, so that's what they settled on after finding the location.

The duo travelled to Japan prior to opening and frequented “many local, one-man operations” where one person would do everything from cooking and serving to making drinks.  And that’s very much the same culture that Omai is trying to build, as back of house staff (read: cooks) often serve the food at the tables. “I wanted to give more back to our cooks,” says Ching regarding the equal distribution of tips between front and back of house staff.

The menu at Omai is a tapestry composed of threads from Bang’s culinary experience. “It’s a bit of Spanish, Korean, and Japanese-Asian influence,” says Bang of the food.


(IMAGE: YVONNE TSUI)

 

The food menu is divided into two sections, temaki and kitchen items. Temaki are made-to-order and should be eaten immediately to ensure that the seaweed stays crisp. There is a selection of seven temaki ($4-$7), such as the tamago, a sweet egg “omelet” with truffle paste (a great vegetarian option) as well as red sea bream with lime and ponzu.

On the kitchen menu are items such as beef cheeks ($15) on a bed of barley “risotto,” smoked butter and Fuyu persimmons. The fingerling potatoes ($9) are triple-fried and topped with house bacon lardons, mentaiko (salt-cured and garlic-chili fermented roe). For vegetarians, there’s also the broccoli ($8) with crème fraiche, smoky pickled red onion, and Meyer lemon aioli.


(IMAGE: YVONNE TSUI)

 

Garnishes are seasonal as much as possible, currently featuring winter radishes, pears, apples and persimmons. There are also daily specials that are “something off-menu and not stuff going bad to pawn off,” says Bang.

Beverage selections lean heavily to Japan, mostly sake and beer with Godspeed as a local, craft brew option. There’s also an Ozawa 40 Shochu, aged two years in a sherry cask which “finished like a whisky and smells like rum.”

Omai is also open for lunch when they feature lunch sets that range from $12-$23, including miso soup. The temaki is available all day but the kitchen menu is reduced at lunchtime.

Omai, 3 Baldwin St., 647-341-7766


(IMAGE: YVONNE TSUI)

 


(IMAGE: YVONNE TSUI)

 

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Yvonne lives to eat. She’s known to her friends as the “Ask Alexa” for the best restaurants in cities all over North America. When she's not doing on-the-ground, scrappy PR for TouchBistro, she's a freelance food and drink writer and tells the origin stories, struggles, and successes of restaurateurs – veteran and new.

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