Chef Mark McEwan tries Toronto's best key lime pies
Seven slices that offer a treat for the tastebuds this March break
Let the sunshine of the Florida Keys wash over you in a swirl of citrusy custard and frothy whipped cream. Chef Mark McEwan tested his sweet tooth on seven of the city’s finest takes on this southern U.S.A. classic. After all, Pi Day also happens to be on the 3/14.
A) HOUSE OF CHAN
House of Chan gets its pies from Joe Stone Crab in Miami. It won McEwan over. “There’s zest in it, which makes it nice and bright,” he says. “The pastry’s really tender. This one had the best taste, the best mouthfeel.”
514 Eglinton Ave. W., $70/pie, $8/slice
B) OLDE YORKE FISH AND CHIPS
McEwan digs the texture of this house-made pie. “To me, it has the right density and colour,” he says. “It has a nice cut to it when you go through it with your fork.”
96 Laird Dr., $40/pie, $6.50/slice
C) ADAMSON BAKERY
“This one is the sloppiest one,” says McEwan. “But that can be good, too.” Indeed, he thinks that, overall, the taste of this less precise pie holds up.
176 Wicksteed Ave., $24/pie
D) WANDA’S PIE IN THE SKY
“The look of it is really good,” says McEwan. “I think it’s a real crowd-pleaser. It’s mild on the citrus side, but if it were served on its own, it’d be fine. It’s well constructed.”
287 Augusta Ave., $7.05/slice, $13–$46/pie.
E) ROLLING PIN
“It’s intense,” he says of this heavier rendition. “Big citrus. Right-in-your-face citrus.” For fans of not overly sweet pies, this one would be a good pick.
1970 Avenue Rd., $25/pie
F) 7 NUMBERS
The crust is on the dense side, but McEwan thinks it’s a solid pie. “The flavour is good; the custard is good,” he says. “It’s got good colour.”
516 Eglinton Ave. W., $7.25/slice, $40/pie
G) HANSEN’S DANISH PASTRY SHOP
A creative take on the classic, this pie is almost entirely composed of lime-tinged cream. “This one’s not really a key lime pie,” he says. “Not sure what they were doing.”
7509 Yonge St., $12.50/pie