Sabai Sabai, the word “bar” appeared quite frequently in descriptions of the new place. It is, indeed, cooler; charcoal grey punctuated by dozens of Edison lights, music booming.">

Kates: can good food be found at Sabai Sabai Kitchen, or just good bar food?


Published:

Sabai Sabai's crispy fried fish (Image: Gizelle Lau)

When chef Nuit Regular, the wizard from Chiang Mai, decamped from Khao San Road to open Sabai Sabai, the word “bar” appeared quite frequently in descriptions of the new place. It is, indeed, cooler; charcoal grey punctuated by dozens of Edison lights, music booming.

As for chef Regular’s nuanced and detailed Thai cooking, forget it. The khao soi — egg noodle in rich coconut curry with crisp noodles on top — seems heavy. Tom yum soup is all heat; spiced chicken noodle salad is unexciting, sticky rice is dried out and tamarind reduction on deep-fried fish is MIA.

It’s not bad food — just not sparkling. Bar food.

Sabai Sabai Kitchen and Bar, 225 Church St., 647-748-4225

Joanne Kates trained at the Ecole Cordon Bleu de Cuisine in Paris. She has written articles for numerous publications, including the New York Times, Maclean’s and Chatelaine, and she was the Globe and Mail's restaurant critic for 38 years.

Edit Module

Join the conversation and have your say by commenting below. Our comment system uses a Facebook plugin. Please note that you'll have to turn off some ad-blockers in order to see the comments.

Edit Module

Follow us on Twitter @PostCity for more on what to eat, where to shop and what to do in Toronto.

Edit ModuleShow Tags

You may also like...

Uptown DineSafe infractions from April and May

Uptown DineSafe infractions from April and May

Posted 1 day ago
In Season and on the Menu: Rhubarb lands on menus including Toronto's Soho House

In Season and on the Menu: Rhubarb lands on menus including Toronto's Soho House

This week, I talked to Soho House Toronto’s pastry chef, Kirsten Pettit, all about rhubarb. It’s her favourite season.
Posted 4 days ago
Coal-fired pizza is coming to Toronto

Coal-fired pizza is coming to Toronto

Angelo’s Coal Fired Pizza, an import from Quincy, MA, is set to open on Front Street this June.
Posted 6 days ago
Lunch Pick: The Chase Fish & Oyster’s new seafood brunch

Lunch Pick: The Chase Fish & Oyster’s new seafood brunch

The Chase Fish and Oyster is doing brunch. Now that the weather has finally shaped up, the ideal prelude to a day at the water’s edge is a meal replete with the fruits of the sea.
Posted 1 week ago
Edit ModuleShow Tags Edit ModuleShow Tags Edit ModuleEdit Module