ACE Bakery’s founders open a fried chicken shop? Free range chickens getting a 24-hour brining and double-frying happens. Crispier than ever before, non-greasy, plump. Impossible-to-choose-between tandoori sauce, both complex and spicy, and sweet/tart mustard sauce.">

Kates: at Paulette’s Original, fried chicken is crispier than ever before


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What happens when the offspring of ACE Bakery’s founders open a fried chicken shop? Free range chickens getting a 24-hour brining and double-frying happens. Crispier than ever before, non-greasy, plump. Impossible-to-choose-between tandoori sauce, both complex and spicy, and sweet/tart mustard sauce.

For those nights when cooking is out but so is a restaurant: Paulette’s is best for takeout, and fast, except for when line-ups happen — which unfortunately (for us) is often, thanks to the obsession with quality.

I would skip the mac ‘n’ cheese side (too spicy, not creamy enough), but go for the frozen hot chocolate. This is where slushy and milkshake meet, thanks to dark chocolate and whole and condensed milk. KFC was never thus.

Paulette’s Original Doughnuts and Chicken, 913 Queen St. E., 647-748-1177

Joanne Kates trained at the Ecole Cordon Bleu de Cuisine in Paris. She has written articles for numerous publications, including the New York Times, Maclean’s and Chatelaine, and she was the Globe and Mail's restaurant critic for 38 years.

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