September 2, 2014
Sep 11, 2012
01:48 PM
Eat

First Look: Doppio Zero, a new Neapolitan pizza joint and Italian eatery on Eglinton

Carpaccio di polpo with arugula (Images: Karolyne Ellacott)

Open for just over a week, Doppio Zero marks chef-owner Nick D’Elia’s return to his old Forest Hill stomping grounds. After manning the Italian side of the ‘hood for some 20 years with eateries including Sette Mezzo, D’Elia took a bit of a sabbatical and headed north. Opening Woodbridge’s
Market Lane Pizzeria, it wasn’t long before he felt Eglinton West’s pull once again. “I decided to claim rightly what was mine,” he laughs.

When the former Sapphire Thai location became available, D’Elia jumped at the opportunity. The joint is named after the double zero flour, which is the most highly refined flour, and an essential ingredient for proper Neapolitan pizza crust. After adding a prosciutto fridge and a wood-burning pizza oven in the back, the place was good to go. Seating 70, the big picture windows up front allow for people watching, while a series of brightly coloured paintings from local artist Michael Golland liven the walls.

In terms of the menu, 14 pizzas are on offer: seven white and seven red.

“My style was always Roma, with the crispy crust,” D’Elia notes. “But this Neapolitan craze has taken over, so we got a young Neopolitan chef, Giulo Raucci, to spin the pies.” The namesake version features mascarpone cheese, smoked salmon, red onions and capers on a bed of greens ($15).

Other menu options include antipasti, various pasta, meat and seafood dishes. “The grilled octopus is to die for,” D’Elia exclaims, reminiscing about visits to Apulia when he’d head to the beach with relatives to fish for fresh octopus. Grilling it up, they’d dress it with fresh lemon and olive oil, eating it with their hands. The restaurant version, carpaccio di polpo ($15), features thinly sliced octopus perched on a bed of arugula and drizzled with a citrus vinaigrette and salsa verde—though it’s probably best to use the silverware. With plenty of former customers already extoling his return, the spirited D’Elia is ready to take the neighbourhood by storm.

Doppio Zero, 530 Eglinton Ave. W., 416-488-0088.


 
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