Fashion Week Diaries: impressive looks from Adrian Wu, Laura Siegel and Sid Neigum
By Karolyne Ellacott
Models at the Adrian Wu show wore Guy Fawkes masks in a gesture of political commentary
Day two got off to a good start with Adrian Wu’s showing in the intimate studio space. Notable attendees included Stacey McKenzie in a huge red fur cape, Robin Kay in sunglasses and a stunning Kreesha Turner. Last season the young designer presented a rather challenging collection filled with phallic protuberances; this time around his work remained true to his aesthetic, but was more easily digestible. (See the gallery at the bottom of this post.)
Titled “Hierarchy of Needs,” the cuts referenced old Parisian clothing (though which particular era, we’re not quite sure), while the garments were crafted from lightly dotted flannelette, a fabric typically used for pajamas, not cocktail frocks. Models donned Guy Fawkes masks — a commentary on North American politics versus those of Europe, apparently — as they ambled down a runway dotted with balloon trees. A mustard-yellow and cream dress showcased an inverted pleating technique Wu invented, while an abstract one-shouldered number featured a trio of intersecting loops at each hip, making up the skirt. As the model turned around, a bare bottom was revealed — a rather (dare we say it) cheeky touch.
Next up was Laura Siegel, whose show drew the likes of designer Ashley Rowe and boutique owner Jaclyn Genovese. As haunting strains of CocoRosie drifted over the audience, a series of looks in a murky palette was paraded by models styled with huge mounds of teased hair and dark smudged eyes. Inspired by dreamscapes and the rugged beauty of India, Siegel’s collection incorporated rich textures and used fabrics such as raw silk, bamboo and merino wool. A tribal feel was achieved through Siegel’s use of various hand-dyeing, printing and embroidery techniques, which were made in collaboration with artisans in India; the knits, meanwhile, were all crafted in Bolivia. The collection was strong from start to finish. Standout pieces included a charcoal-grey and white tie-dyed dress that was beautifully draped, and a chunky knit sweater with holes that could be worn in various ways.
Laura Siegel used hand dyeing to achieve a tribal feel (Images: George Pimentel)
After Sid Neigum’s collection blew us away last season, we had high hopes for the New York-based designer. While we weren’t quite as enamored this time around, Neigum presented a solid showing of mostly menswear (rumour has it his womenswear is vying for a prize, so it couldn’t be shown properly). With a palette of black and desert colours — think sand and taupe — the designer continued to play with texture and layering with looks fit for Game of Thrones. We liked the proportions of a black quilted coat that appeared to be half-coat half-duvet, while a textured leather jacket cut a dramatic silhouette.
Also in Fashion Week Diaries
Day One: Lucian Matis’ darkly romantic vision, Holt Renfrew lacks panache
Tomorrow: Vawk and Joe Fresh
Images from Adrian Wu's show