#22 Lee


Still only #21. Because Lee is heartless and delectable. They call to confirm our res. No thank-you, just you have two hours to eat and if you’re 15 minutes late your table’s gonzo. Then an equally unwelcoming confirming email. One time they put four of us beside a squalling infant — with two four-tops elsewhere open. Robotic waitstaff recite ingredients lists at warp speed, with no eye contact and nary a smile. We’d boycott Lee for neglectful service, but the food is still Susur’s Chinese–French fantasia. Crispy tofu made captivating with honey, soy, mushrooms, peppers and genius. Gossamer pastry under chevre with tomatillos, etc., for sexy mouth-feel. Thai lamb, red and juicy, spiked with cardamom, ginger and mint. Perfect lobster ravioli, like all else, balanced on a hot sweet knife-edge. And the famous Singapore slaw, still perfect after all these years.

  • Lee
  • 601 King St. W., Toronto (map)
  • 416-504-7867
  • www.susur.com/lee

  • Chef: Susur Lee
  • Sous Chef: Jonas Mangao
  • Cuisine: Asian Fusion
  • Cost of dinner for two: $100
  • Hours: Mon. to Wed. 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Thurs. to Sat. 5:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.
  • Reservations: Yes
  • Meals served: Dinner
  • Veggie-friendly: Yes
  • Wines available: 30+
  • BYOB?: Yes
  • Corkage fee: $30
  • Patio: Yes
  • Private party area: Entire venue may be booked
  • Wheelchair accessible: No
  • CC accepted: Yes
  • Parking: Street parking available
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