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Restaurant Reviews

Table Talk: Joanne Kates reviews Hoof Raw Bar

Since Grant van Gameren hoofed it from The Hoof last year, it’s not been clear whether (now sole) owner Jen Agg has the creative vision to sustain and renew the brand. A mixologist by trade, she was never going to have it easy with the departure of her wunderkind chef/partner. The Black Hoof itself is not, in my view, as fabulous as it was under Grant.
August 29, 2012

Table Talk: Joanne Kates reviews Hawker Bar

I have an unfortunate thing with chicken wings. I wish I didn’t. Wouldn’t it be great if I couldn’t get enough kale … or rapini … or Brussels sprouts? Good luck with that. As for the chicken wings problem, dining at Hawker Bar was an opportunity for major backsliding.
July 26, 2012

Table Talk: Joanne Kates reviews Edulis

Anton Potvin had enough of walking the floor every night at his marvellous Niagara Street Café, and his friends, the husband-and-wife culinary team of Tobey Nemeth and Michael Caballo, were just back from four years of cooking their way around the world. They made the deal, sealed it with a tequila, and shazam, Niagara Street Café became Edulis, Nemeth and Caballo’s new baby.
June 27, 2012

Table Talk: Joanne Kates reviews The Grove

At first it is confusing to me how easy it is to get a reservation at The Grove. The blogosphere has been flattering about the food, so what gives?
June 13, 2012

Table Talk: Joanne Kates reviews Gusto 101

I don’t think Conrad Black is dining at Gusto 101. For one thing, they don’t take reservations after 6 p.m., and for another, His Lordship might not like the noise. It might remind him too much of where he spent his last couple of years. Oh, and for another thing, most of the good stuff at Gusto is pretty high carb, and Lord Black is apparently trying to lose weight after all the carbs he ate you-know-where.
June 01, 2012

Meaty mandates: Bestellen and Ursa offer their takes on Toronto’s carnivore craze

As Toronto's carnivore craze hits new heights, we check out two takes on this tasty trend
April 30, 2012

Sea-ing is believing: Hopgood's Foodliner and Catch reviewed

Two new Toronto restaurants get serious with seafood
March 15, 2012

Roncy restaurant revival

The Ace and The Westerly lead charge as centre of the culinary universe heads west
February 15, 2012

Four little bistros that could

A quartet of the city’s most charming French restaurants
February 08, 2012

Children of the Hoof

Grand Electric shines, while Grant van Gameren adds his magic to Enoteca Sociale
January 18, 2012

The rise of east end eateries

The perpetually sketchy corner of Gerrard and Carlaw holds a special place in my heart. It was there, years ago, that I indulged in a $1.99 breakfast at Gee’s Bar and Restaurant each and every Saturday, back when I thought McCain Tasti Taters were humanity’s greatest invention. Then, one day, Gee’s upped the price of its greasy breakfast to $2.49. I never went back.
December 21, 2011

Northern Italian Exposure

A name like F’Amelia has that romantic, roll-off-your-tongue swagger that makes it sound like it means something in Italian, but it doesn’t. It’s a perfect name nonetheless for a new Cabbagetown restaurant.
November 16, 2011

Nouveau aboriginal

It’s no secret that Parkdale is a locavore’s mecca these days. Just east of Roncesvalles, the nose-to-tail advocates at Cowbell source practically everything from local farmers. Next door, Parts and Labour grows produce and herbs in its expansive rooftop garden. Local Kitchen and Wine Bar’s commitment needs no explanation: it’s named after the movement. These restaurants were quick to make fresh and local a selling point, so the neighbourhood’s newest addition, Keriwa Cafe, had to do something to stand out. Opened in mid-August, it too boasts fresh, local and seasonal food, but the hook is its aboriginal cuisine.
October 12, 2011

New in the Neighbourhood: Ozzero

For signori and donne in Italy, Ozzero is a municipality in the province of Milan in the Lombardy region. For Torontonians, it’s a new trattoria in North Toronto that serves up classic plates of Italian without pomp or fanfare.
January 31, 2011

Restaurant Review: Wabora

IF YOU TAKE a successful Japanese fusion restaurant from Muskoka and drop it in the funky new Thompson Toronto boutique hotel in Toronto, what happens? I’m at Wabora about to find out.
October 26, 2010

McEwan’s Italian food factory

October 26, 2010

Picture-perfect neighbourhood fare

The menu is blessedly brief and new each day, beginning in the loveliest of ways. Each diner receives two amuse bouches in ceramic spoons. Tonight the treats are salmon salad with capers and sirloin with whipped blue cheese. And… we are off!
September 29, 2010

People's Republic of Pasta Hits Midtown

LITTLE ITALY LANDMARK Giancarlo’s Trattoria and Bar is going strong, so the owner has packed up the pasta and ventured north to St.Clair Avenue to open Prop.
September 29, 2010

Striking a pose between comfort & spicy

Villa’s kitchen turns out fresh and fabulous Malaysian plates, brought to table by delightful, adept servers without attitude.
July 28, 2010

Does Rosedale hotspot live up to the hype?

A heavenly Cornish hen helps
July 28, 2010