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FeedT.O.'s Best Margherita Pizza
David and Nina Rocco, hosts of the Food Network’s Dolce Vita, fall in love with the city’s most authentic Margherita pizzas
David and Nina Rocco with the winning pizza
GRAND PRIZE WINNER
PIZZERIA LIBRETTO, 221 OSSINGTON AVE.
“Bang. This is Naples,” says David. “The cheese is not uniform; it’s in lumps, which is exactly right. In Italy, the pizzaiolo would break the cheese with his hands. And underneath, it’s got that crepe texture, and you can smell the charred wood.” Nina is big on the uneven, bubbly crust: “The dough is the pillar of a great pizza. You could eat this one on its own,” she says. To attempt an authentic Margherita in Toronto takes daring, says David, since the North American custom is generally wall-to-wall cheese and mounds of toppings. “Yes, a real confidence here,” agrees Nina with a nod. “Someone visited Italy.”
Price: $13
WATCH VIDEO: David and Nina Rocco pick T.O.'s Best Pizza
FIRST RUNNER-UPQueen Margherita Pizza -- 1402 Queen St. E.The gap between Libretto’s winning pie and this one from QMP is as thin as a basil leaf. “It’s got all the qualities — airiness, charred crust, chewy mozzarella,” says David. “Damn good pizza.” But they prefer the dough from Libretto. Price: $13.95 |
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HAPPILY NAPOLIFabbrica -- 49 Karl Fraser Rd. All the elements of a terrific authentic Margherita — a bubbly, uneven crust and a subtle charred flavour — but more basil and cheese than is necessary, which suggests a lack of confidence in the “kick- ass” dough, says David. Price: $16 |
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BASIL FAULTYMarcello’s Pizzeria -- 1163 St. Clair Ave. W. “This is typical anywhere in Toronto,” says David. “It’s got a thick texture, almost chewy.” Despite the ho-hum appearance, Nina likes the authentic flavour but wishes there were bigger pieces of basil instead of flecks. A “good” Margherita. Price: $9.95 |
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BEAUTY IS CRUST DEEPTerroni -- 57a Adelaide St. E. “I never understand it when people peel off the basil. It’s there to be eaten,” says Nina. A good attempt at authenticity and a beautiful presentation, but a dry crust and not enough flavour in the cheese or sauce. Price: $13.95 |
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Reader Comments:
"Someone visited Italy?" Seriously? Libretto's Rocco could cook circles around TV's Rocco.
David, next time you go to England, you must stop by Bella Italia...a really nice chain of inexpensive restaurants throughout England, and the food is great. Their Margherita pizza is to die for, really is! It tastes the way you're describing the winning pizza from Pizzeria Lobretto ;-)
David! What IS your secret?! Saw you at the book awards given for: The Next Generation. Made in Canada: The Italian Way published by Mansfield Press and edited by the Italian Chamber of Commerce of Ontario. You haven't aged in ten years! If i ever write a romance novel (Harlequin) with Italy as theme...you're my man and I bet every woman's and mother's dream. But, on to pizza. The absolute best i ever had was about 35 years ago in a tiny town in Northern Ontario. My friend said it was the sweet onions. But it had to be more than this. I'm heading to Queen Margherita Pizza -- 1402 Queen St. East in Toronto real soon. Thanks!
www.maydelory.wordpress.com
p.s. check out my Word Press food post on blood pudding...i mention Italy but there's a lot more to it than i know.
Libretto and Queen Margherita are great, but the drive from north Toronto is a pain. There is a new player in this pizza battle, Viva Napoli on MT. Pleasant that is worth a try and it is local! The pizza does not disappoint and is a worthy competitor. Too bad this article came out before it's opening. If you have ever been to Napoli’s great Da Michele, you have to try this spot...