The Chase Fish & Oyster underwhelms the palate but seduces the eye.
Francisco Alejandri gets his first real restaurant.
Leslieville’s Bero serves up food that either wows or disappoints.
Midtown’s La Cascina seduces with Italian fare.
Soup has always been my favourite food. From my bubby's supernal chicken noodle soup, to the ramen and pho of today, with pit stops for bouillabaisse, black bean and miso, I always choose soup first.
You have to get cold to go to the hottest new restaurant in Toronto — and that may be its undoing.
There are people in this world who like their food with the volume turned up. Maybe their marriage sucks. Or they’re on a really boring date. Or they’re out with an old friend out of obligation and there’s nothing left to say. Diners in any of these situations might really enjoy dinner at the Drake Hotel’s new extension of its brand (as they say on their website).
I am gobsmacked. Utterly confused. Freaked out even. When Bruce Woods was chef at Modus Ristorante (2011–2012), he produced some of the best traditional Italian food in Toronto. There were ethereal gnocchi, deep rich sauces, great hunks of fabulous meat and wonderful pastas.
How is it that the hottest table in town has slightly dumb service? Is there any sense to every course being delivered by a different person (some of whom make up what’s on the plate)? Or maybe this is something we should appreciate because the chef/owner of Valdez, Steve Gonzalez, gets that the only way to ensure good cooking is to do it yourself rather than swanning around the front of the house.
I am sometimes confused about how to present myself. It’s clear from the amount of Lululemon walking down the street that other women of my age and income bracket may have similar confusion. We parade around town wearing booty-hugging “yoga pants” that show off all the fat we’re avoiding by our gym habits and non-fat skinny lattes. Is this what my mother looked like at 63?
Meh. Not exactly a ringing endorsement. THR & Co. is what happened when the Harbord Room was super successful: Messis next door went on the block, and chef/co-owner Cory Vitiello of the Harbord Room just couldn’t resist.
Playa Cabana 2.0 is even more fun than its Dupont Street original. It’s bigger and bolder, a carefully curated American roadhouse with hot pink neon, highway signs and big metal sombreros doubling as lights over the bar. What a great taqueria — and they take reservations!
It has become commonplace for people of a certain age to kvetch like crazy about the cool new restaurants that don’t take reservations or have backs on their chairs or make you welcome, that serve fatty pig and play the music at rock concert levels.
The hottest new taqueria in town is… inconsistent. It’s summer in the city, you want it hot, and Pancho needs to turn up the temperature. Till then, cherry-pick the menu.