February 4, 2012

Out of this world cuisine

Rosedale's earth is where it's at

Janice Warren

Having just read an update on 24 recent restaurant closings, I am in awe of the optimism inherent in the opening of a new dining spot.

Layer that with a “jinxed” location, and it is clear that the guiding minds have supreme confidence. Given that the minds, in this case, are the folks behind the successful Globe Bistro on the Danforth, earth may have a shot.

Upon first visit, two weeks in, this machine is slick and polished. On this evening, we are four, so the sampling is broad. Elk onion soup with brie crostini is a standout. An intriguing variation on the ubiquitous French onion soup. The broth has layers of richness, and we find the brie to be a succulent alternative to the sweeter Gruyère ($8). The daily soup is a rather thin rendering of a root vegetable broth ($6). Both could be hotter.

The winner is crispy speckled trout with frisée and horseradish froth. The fish has been treated with great respect: crispy skin without a trace of oil has managed to seal in the juices, which show the freshness of the sea. The horseradish does not appear and would be welcome, but this does not detract from the dish ($10).

Check out PostCity video of earth chef Kevin McKenna's Elk Venison Shepherd's Pie

We slide by the four offerings of wood oven flatbreads and are leery of the category “from the local butcher” as each cut of meat is priced by the ounce. I suspect Torontonians will need a great deal of education before we are ready to take a leap into the pond of unknown costs.

I am delighted to report that the main courses are excellent. Lake Huron walleye (did I mention the emphasis on local ingredients?) lives up to the standard set by the trout. This is a light fish and must be handled delicately: high searing creates the merest of crusts and seals in the delectable juices ($24). It is graced by squash, spinach and red pepper butter.

Bradford Bay chicken legs are slow roasted with a mushroom jus and are ideal on this chilly evening. But, what has the four of us jousting with our forks is the mound of tiny tarragon spaetzle that have no resemblance to those doughy dumplings found in schnitzel joints ($22).

The Creemore-braised beef cheek that sits atop a hillock of mashed potatoes run through with Benedictine blue cheese is the ultimate soul food. The meat has been slow cooked to an enchantingly sweet tenderness, and the spuds are irresistible … to all of us ($22, the bargain of the evening).

As few sides are offered with the mains, we take the menu’s suggestion of ordering a few at three for $15. Smoked-salt Yukon frites are everything they should be, and wood-roasted mushrooms would be even better if they had arrived with the entrees. Cardamon-roasted carrots need longer roasting and a more generous hand with the spicing.

Earth has a proper dessert carte. A thoughtful selection of local cheese is available for the Ontario cheese board at $4 per ounce. But, tonight we want a sweet finale. Valrhona chocolate torte offers nothing that we have not had dozens of times before. However, house-made cantaloupe sorbet with coconut rum is intensely flavourful and comes with a big chocolate chunk cookie. Niagara apple crumble is nearly brilliant: apples have not been reduced to mush, and the crumble is full of cinnamon and crunch.

Now, I read that it comes with cheddar ice cream, but I am seeing hot apples and a scoop of something cold and white, and I cannot reprogram my taste buds from expecting vanilla.

This address, 1055 Yonge St., has housed many eateries over the years, and I truly hope earth breaks the curse.

This article appears in the January 2010 issue of Post City Magazines

Did you like what you read here? Subscribe to Post City Magazines »

Comments to the Post City Magazines website do not reflect the opinions of the company or the author of the article in question. We do not edit comments for grammar, length or clarity. Offensive comments will be removed at the discretion of Post City Magazines. To read all of our website policies, click here.

Add your comment:
Verification Question. (This is so we know you are a human and not a spam robot.)

What is 1 + 8 ?