80Blowfish on Bay

Son of Blowfish is a different critter from Blowfish. Tucked into a downtown office tower but with its own streetside entrance on Bay Street, it lacks the glamour of the original Blowfish. How could a sterile office tower compete visually with a restored vintage bank building? And therein lies the appeal of Blowfish on Bay: The pretty people aren’t there. It’s quiter and the service is more attentive, thanks to the absence of the scenesters who crowd the original. Blowfish exec chef G.Q. Pan’s grasp on his food has strengthened and his fusion ideas are solid now: Miso soup meets saffron-scented lobster bisque with robust flavour and rich texture but no cream, afloat with big chunks of barely cooked super-tender lobster claw, scallop, squid and shrimp. East meets west again in wild bass with creamy curry sauce, braised lotus root and Jerusalem artichokes. Rare roasted duck breast sings clever harmony with papaya and mango slices. The menu also offers all the usual sushi/sashimi options, beautifully executed.