21Buca

If an out-of-towner asked me for a typical Toronto restaurant, I'd say Buca, for it signifies a hat trick of edible Toronto: First our ethnic background in general and specifically our strong Italian immigrant presence. Second how cool we've become. Who needs the Big Apple when we have restaurants like this, in a reclaimed warehouse with soaring ceilings, washed brick, industrial fixtures and a multiplicity of clever little spaces, all grace and no attitude? And third, Buca is one of the reasons why Toronto is one of the great food cities of the world, for pure food quality. That chef Rob Gentile trained under Mark McEwan shows in his impeccable technique. I love his thin-crust pizzas with clever toppings and his pasta, especially when he fills them with the likes of veal, grana padano and mortadella and makes matters even richer with a deep strong veal sauce. His charcuterie is superb, and even the desserts, not usually an Italian strong suit, are worth every calorie.