69Loire Casual Gourmet

Loire is that sweet little Parisian bistro of your youth, which exists only in memory - and on Harbord Street. It's tiny, noisy and delicious. You never know what they're cooking because the menu changes every three weeks or so, thanks to markets and seasons. But hope for the likes of perfectly cooked scallops, their white wine sauce rescued from the mundane by chorizo, saffron and red peppers. The $17 burger is meaty, juicy perfection, with the added pleasure of melted Quebec Brie and deep rich tomato jam. $20 buys carrot coriander risotto, which is a model of small but mighty flavours and impeccable texture, with a chevre foam cloud as a moat around it. Chef's duck confit is crispy, his potato and gruyere gratin properly creamy. Bon Appetit!