86Parts & Labour

If you’re looking to red-line the cool-metre, P&L is where to go. Long wooden communal tables are the new new thing. Also very of the moment are the three high-tops beside the open kitchen, where the action is. The menu is mostly meat-centric comfort food, some a bit rough ‘n’ ready. P&L does two great dishes: Elk loin arrives on a wooden platter, having been roasted so hot and fast that its heart is fork-tender, red and juicy, its cloak a crispy carapace. Accompanying this luscious loin with red and yellow baby beets and exotic mushrooms is the icing on the cake. Speaking of cake, the other great item is chocolate pie, whose filling is dark, bittersweet and smooth. And there’s a lot of it for $8.