1Scaramouche Restaurant

Scaramouche jumped to number one this year because of confidence. When owners Keith Froggett (chef) and Carl Korte (maître d’) finally got security of tenure at the Benvenuto last year, they redoubled their commitment to excellence. Scaramouche had great food and service, but now it’s even better, the service more relaxing to receive, the food more assured. If Michelin were to rate Toronto, this would be the one place to cop a star (or two) — thanks to the most professional service in town, and exquisitely composed plates. If it’s spring, chef strews tiny baby peas and ultra-thin asparagus spears with fresh California rock shrimp and knits it all together with lightly creamed sea urchin on impeccable house-made pasta. Froggett’s approach is nouvelle French but his larder is global: Wild Arctic char is lightly crusted in nori-flecked tempura, with chilies, tiny cubes of Japanese eggplant, meaty soy-braised shiitake and ethereal beurre blanc scented with soy and lime. Fork-tender veal comes ringed with a bouquet of crisp thin-sliced deep-fried artichoke hearts, atop creamy polenta sweetened with brown butter, in translucent brown sauce studded with tiny cubes of preserved lemon for zing. For dessert, coconut cream pie is required eating, a Scaramouche icon of rich custard and fresh coconut cream. Dinner unfolds like a dream, the city skyline sparkling below the wall of windows. Tip: Book weeks in advance and get a window table.