15Sushi Kaji

Mitsuhiro Kaji practices his art in a schleppy stripmall in Etobicoke but once inside Sushi Kaji, it’s a magic carpet ride to old Japan. Kaji apprenticed to sushi masters for 13 years in Japan. They taught him to view the cutting of corners as gastronomic hara-kiri, and his skills match that commitment to excellence. There is no a la carte menu. 30 lucky diners reserve in advance, for one of three set dinners ($80 to $120 per person). The set meal unfolds in a stately minuet of Japanese splendours. His sushi is poetry on the plate, the freshest fish fashioned into edible art – a sea bream rose with cucumber peel “leaves.” Raw squid masquerading as egg white with sea urchin “yolk.” Cooked items are the likes of tiny clams in buttery sake broth. A baby eggplant fanned out and deep fried, with crisp fresh lotus root sandwiched between two barely grilled scallops. Eating Kaji’s food leaves no doubt about the place of food in the world of art.