62Toca @ Ritz Carlton

Canadiana goes upmarket in a suave dining room that floats above the Ritz Carlton lobby. Although the food is neither complex nor particularly creative, it is comfort food de luxe, always carefully prepared with strong technique and hence fine flavour and texture. I love the plump roast chicken made erotic with truffle butter and its great roast baby veg, and the incredibly tender pork stew with spatzle. Lobster fish and chips are fun food gone glam. They pay great attention to sides, which bespeaks attention to detail: Everybody in town does black cod, but Toca partners it with fabulous little mushrooms braised with barely cooked fresh lima beans and Brussels sprout leaves. Skip dessert, it doesn’t measure up to the savoury side.