23North 44

Although no longer number one since Mark McEwan expanded his business, North 44 remains a serious restaurant. Even if the kitchen is not always on its best game, the servers are among the best in town; their attention knows no bounds. The food is elaborate and global, the kitchen as comfortable doing tandoori as tempura. If the squab legs are sometimes tough, their accompanying consomme and Lilliputian oxtail ravioli are rich recompense, their garnish of deep fried sage leaves delightfully crisp. The accoutrements are always interesting: With grilled veal tenderloin there is delicate house-made ravioli of veal shank and velvety roasted marrow with jazzy mustard-infused reduction. If you need to impress somebody, this is your spot.