29Actinolite

The neighbourhood of Ossington and Dupont suddenly got delectable when Actinolite opened in March 2012. In the small bright room, flavour happens. Chef/owner Justin Cournoyer, who cooked for four years at Susur, has not forgotten the master’s lessons. His food is complex, layered and light. Just a hint of crème fraiche smooths veg soup of asparagus and mushrooms with a hint of smoke from ham. Fat shrimp sit on superb brandade de morue (salt cod purée with potatoes), jazzed with roasted red peppers both whole and puréed. And of course a flurry of garlic chips. They accessorize lamb with eggplant, peppers and pine nuts, and delicately steamed Georgian Bay whitefish with an incredibly delicate carrot and lemon sauce. As for dessert of grapefruit pavlova, anybody who combines meringue, cream and grapefruit (both fresh and confit) is a culinary hero.