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How clever to morph the famous Black Hoof charcuterie board to seafood, following the Hoof formula of tastes going from mild to intense as you get closer to the handle of the long board. Olive-cured branding is pale and delicate, the light fish barely flavoured with olive. Miso gives black cod, rarely served raw, a slightly pungent sweetness. Gravlax tuna, a play on gravlax salmon, profits less well from its salt and sugar cure. Tuna, being so much less fatty than salmon, toughens a bit, though the flavour is grand. And over by the handle is the most overt nod to Hoof tradition — chorizo-cured scallop, the spicy strong outside a great foil to raw wet scallop on the inside. The sweetness of house pickled baby onions go with the cured fish like gin goes with tonic. This place also does raw like a dream come true.