19Ici Bistro

JP Challet’s little French bistro is a veritable gem, 24 seats, chef Challet always in the kitchen sending out what is clearly his masterwork. All those years helming the kitchens of the rich and famous taught JP what he didn’t want to do: he takes the classics of French cuisine apart and puts them back together lighter and brighter. His deconstructed bouillabaisse is rouille-stuffed ravioli with tiny frites embracing sweet shrimps. Chef makes sweet love to foie gras with figs and black trumpet mushrooms. Lobster thermidor went out with the Hula Hoop, but JP brings it back as perfect cold lobster, a great crab cake, lobster croquettes and chili’d mayo. Hurrah for innovation! He cleverly cuts the richness of pork belly with mustardy dressing, and the scent of star anise gives duck magret a big flavour uptick. Order a Grand Marnier soufflé when you sit down, and you will know that French food isn’t dead, it’s alive and superb on Harbord Street.