February 8, 2012

Warmed up by a bright new culinary concept

Taste trumps calorie counting

Janice Warren

EVERY NEW RESTAURANT needs a hook, something to bring people in the door. Glow, a new eatery in the shiny,upscale Shops at Don Mills, has it made.

Rose Reisman who is the doyenne of healthy eating (without sacrificing taste), is the guiding mind here. A great deal of thought and money has gone into the decor. Remarkably, there is a substantial glass installation by Dale Chihuly here and a gorgeous piece by another glass artist, Edgerly.

But this does not dim the real focus — the food. Although the mandate is the pursuit of a healthy way to enjoy meals, the emphasis is clearly on the enjoyment factor.

Many restaurants in town introduce more guilt into their menus by way of calorie, fat and carb counts. No such preaching here.

An amuse bouche arrives to amuse us, while we review the menu, followed by three spreads: beet and ricotta, black olive tapenade and a fabulous mint hummus to be scooped up by crispy grain crostini.

We are intrigued by a clever soup calendar — a different offering each day of the week, priced at $7. We choose, though, to put the kitchen to a higher test.

The pan-seared ahi tuna appetizer is fantastic. Sliced sushi style, the richness is offset by a bed of fennel-mango slaw ($12). Two crab cakes are more than generous, but they are a little mealy and a tad too much filler has been added.Nevertheless, they are raised from the mediocre by a zippy tahini sauce ($11).

I am sorely tempted by another appetizer: flatbread with grilled beef tenderloin and wild mushrooms with reggiano Parmesan, fresh arugula and grilled red onions ($13).

The only reason I pass is that I cannot resist the veal chop entree. One should always give in to temptation, and I am wellrewarded.

This is a grilled, bone-in chop with a basil pesto and feta crust. We have encountered many “crusted” items elsewhere that, by the time they arrive at the table, are merely mush. Not so tonight. This crust has snap and is an ideal complement to the veal.

Filling out the plate are fingerling potatoes and seasonal vegetables ($28).

Rainbow trout is another winner. It is pan seared,underlaid with dark beet greens, and topped with a peach and pear relish. Crispy skin against the most tender of flesh — who could ask for anything more? The starch on this plate is a delicate and savoury sweet potato succotash. Not traditional, but it works ($19).

Desserts here are a signature. A caddy is brought to the table with six to eight oversized shooters, each with a different concoction.Various blends of chocolate, peanut butter, cheesecake, carrot cake and similar components are layered into a mini indulgence ($3!). One is more than enough.

The place is fun, the food is terrific, and Glow is a great place to hang with your pals. Particularly with the availability of wine in three-ounce glasses!

 

This article appears in the March 2010 issue of Post City Magazines

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