Madame Boeuf and Flea, a new eatery like no other
Anthony Rose’s latest is a backyard party pad with bodacious burgers, fries and frozé
Madame Boeuf’s namesake burg is for the blue cheese adorer
Image: Kayla Rocca
The madame is in
At Madame Boeuf and Flea it’s all backyard party, all the time. The newest arm of the Anthony Rose empire — squirelled away behind Bar Begonia — is dotted with picnic tables, retro concert posters (Grateful Dead, anyone?) and, let’s be honest, a patron or two looking to get their late afternoon drank on. And with goes-down-easy tipples like “frozé” on the menu, who can blame ’em?
The easygoing attitude of the eatery reflects Rose’s personality. “Keep me away from those fries,” he says, distancing himself from the basket of golden batons presented with a side of orange-hued cheddar dipping sauce. He’ll have you know he invented them, much like the banquet burger (it’s even writ on the menu, fact-checking be damned). For his latest project the chef-preneur has magically married a burger joint with a flea market, just ’cause. “Come back on the last Saturday of the month. It’s going to be good,” he insists, pointing to where the flea market vendors will set up their wares, including vintage records, retro finds for the abode, and, if you’re lucky, somebody’s garage sale goods (it’s happened before).
A burger with more
But more about the menu. Although the banquet burg is Rose’s favourite (growing up in North York means you’re pretty familiar with the classic item), the namesake Madame Burger is a hot item. Starting with a white bun from Ace Bakery, its milky white surfaces are topped with some convex endive leaves to start. A beef patty — a trio of chuck, brisket and hanger — makes for a burger that’s seriously moist, topped with a smorgasbord of pickled mushrooms plus some ’shroom purée for good measure. And then comes a fistful of Roquefort cheese, which will make the blue cheese lover happy as a clam (anti-blueites, don’t bother) — the end result somehow manages to be indulgent but not overly so. Keen to go hog-wild? Load on some double-smoked bacon along with coleslaw, a pickle and those cheesy fries.
Oh and if you wanna get fancy, add a scoop of ice cream to that frozé. Summer, we got you.
Madame Boeuf and Flea, 252 Dupont St., 647-352-3337