#19 Grand Electric

Grand Electric

Taquerias are a dime a dozen, but none cook like Grand Electric. Chef/owner Colin Tooke may be slightly distracted by his around-the-corner outpost, Electric Mud BBQ, because there is the occasional misstep (blah salad, goopy tuna ceviche). All else still dazzles. The complexity and intensity chef Tooke brings to his various tacos is dazzling. From fish to pork tinga, they are all superbly cooked and dressed with the likes of robust guacamole, marinated onions, fresh cheese, chipotle, citrus mayo and coriander. The new octopus el diablo is octopus cooked sous vide and then grilled with tomato crema and garlic chips: Sweet and hot! Their key lime dessert is still fab, and the new coconut cream pie (also in a tiny Mason jar) is even better — toasted coconut, coconut in cream and meringue. All you have to do is put up with the utter lack of hospitality here — no reservations, no they won’t seat you till your whole party arrives, yes they will text you when a table opens up but you must be there first in person. No they will not turn down the music. It’s always ear-splitting and sometimes misogynistic rap. And no, there’s no extra charge for the cold breeze.

  • Grand Electric
  • 1330 Queen St. W., Toronto (map)
  • 416-627-3459
  • www.grandelectricbar.com/

  • Chef: Colin Tooke
  • Cuisine: Mexican
  • Cost of dinner for two: $40
  • Hours: Mon. to Wed. 12 p.m. to 12 a.m.; Thurs. to Fri. 12 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sat. 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun. 11 a.m. to 12 a.m.
  • Reservations: No
  • Meals served: Lunch, dinner
  • Veggie-friendly: Yes
  • Wines available: 4
  • BYOB?: No
  • Patio: Yes
  • Private party area: Yes
  • Wheelchair accessible: No
  • CC accepted: Yes
  • Parking: Street parking, parking lot nearby
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