#11 Hopgood’s Foodliner

Hopgood’s Foodliner

Other chefs do spinoffs and manage branches. Geoff Hopgood commits to the Foodliner, serving renovated Nova Scotia roots food. He buys impeccable seafood — fab tuna, incredible steamed clams, the sweetest imaginable snow crab from Cape Breton, lobster with hazelnut butter. His lightly smoked mackerel on house-made oatcakes gets crème fraiche for balance. He gets fresh spot prawns from BC, and Hopgood is ambidextrous; he shines at meat too — steak tartare and smoked sweetbreads, silken potato fondue with smoked sausage. But his most potent killer punch remains dessert, a house-made chocolate bar full of crunch and dark chocolate. Waitstaff share Hopgood’s Maritime sense of hospitality. They’re clearly happy we’re there and happy to share Hopgood’s great food — all of it worth every calorie.

  • Hopgood’s Foodliner
  • 325 Roncesvalles Ave., Toronto (map)
  • 416-533-2723
  • www.hopgoodsfoodliner.com

  • Chef: Geoff Hopgood
  • Cuisine: Canadian
  • Cost of dinner for two: $90
  • Hours: Wed. to Mon. 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
  • Reservations: Yes
  • Meals served: Brunch, dinner
  • Veggie-friendly: No
  • Wines available: 50
  • BYOB?: Yes
  • Corkage fee: $25
  • Patio: No
  • Private party area: Yes
  • Wheelchair accessible: No
  • CC accepted: Yes (no American Express)
  • Parking: Street parking available
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