#17 Sushi Kaji

Sushi Kaji

Mitsuhiro Kaji practices his art in a schleppy stripmall in Etobicoke, but once inside Sushi Kaji, it’s a magic carpet ride to old Japan. Kaji apprenticed to sushi masters for 13 years in Japan. They taught him to view the cutting of corners as gastronomic hara-kiri, and his skills match that commitment to excellence. There is no à la carte menu. Thirty lucky diners reserve in advance, for one of three set dinners ($100, $120 or $150 per person). The set meal unfolds in a stately minuet of Japanese splendours. His sushi is poetry on the plate, the freshest fish fashioned into edible art — a sea bream rose with cucumber peel “leaves.” Raw squid masquerading as egg white with sea urchin “yolk.” Cooked items are the likes of tiny clams in buttery sake broth. A baby eggplant fanned out and deep-fried, with crisp fresh lotus root sandwiched between two barely grilled scallops. Eating Kaji’s food leaves no doubt about the place of food in the world of art.

  • Sushi Kaji
  • 860 The Queensway, Toronto (map)
  • 416-252-2166
  • www.sushikaji.com

  • Chef: Mitsuhiro Kaji
  • Sous Chef: Takeshi Okada
  • Cuisine: Japanese,Sushi
  • Cost of dinner for two: $100, $120 or $150 per person
  • Hours: Seatings take place from Wed. to Sun. 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.
  • Reservations: Required
  • Meals served: Dinner
  • Veggie-friendly: No
  • Wines available: 10 sake
  • BYOB?: Yes
  • Corkage fee: $20
  • Patio: No
  • Private party area: No
  • Wheelchair accessible: No
  • CC accepted: Yes (no debit)
  • Parking: Street parking available, parking lot next door
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