#34 Union


Union has matured into one of the anchors of Ossington. Chef Teo Paul’s increasingly controlled touch combines whimsy with control. We still adore his cute little elk sliders on challah with fresh sweet pickles, but chef has expanded his reach and changes most of his menu daily according to what he finds in local markets. We adore the deep-flavoured crab bisque, thick and sweet, with a huge pile of fresh crab. His pork roast for two ($55) really feeds four; it’s pinks and juicy, served with a fab apple-tinged jus, a baked late-harvest apple and divine buttery saut of shiitake and Savoy cabbage. Steak frites is sweet frites and a big steak (though not thick) topped with a lot of herb butter. Desserts have improved, especially the half-frozen puckery/creamy lemon posset. Reservations are essential and a bit tricky to get. The room is lovely, from the horseshoe-shaped marble bar at the front to the life-size horse fresco in the back. Service is charming.

  • Union
  • 72 Ossington Ave., Toronto (map)
  • 416-850-0093
  • www.union72.ca

  • Chef: Teo Paul, Ross Goodall
  • Cuisine: French
  • Cost of dinner for two: $120
  • Hours: Lunch: Mon. to Fri. 12 p.m. to 3 p.m.; Brunch: Sat. to Sun. 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Dinner: Tues., Wed., Sun. 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Mon., Thurs. to Sat. 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.
  • Reservations: Yes
  • Meals served: Brunch, lunch, dinner
  • Veggie-friendly: No
  • Wines available: 30+
  • BYOB?: Yes
  • Corkage fee: $30
  • Patio: Yes
  • Private party area: Can rent entire venue out
  • Wheelchair accessible: No
  • CC accepted: Yes
  • Parking: Street parking available, Green P nearby
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